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the excellent beverly hills people-watching scene is straight out of "the player." hollywood heavy-hitters, who are coddled by the effusive owners, pack the place for both lunch and dinner. attractive black-and-white photos of old italy grace the walls. the vast booths are equally appropriate for romantic tete-a-tetes or top-secret business deals. in addition to being always on target with plentiful portions of authentic, top-drawer northern italian cuisine (order the veal milanese), this west hollywood stalwart continues to draw an older crowd for its well-made cocktails, quiet, comfortable white-tablecloth setting and charming, accommodating staff that treats everyone special.